Review · Reiko · Budget channel
Reiko TC100: a review of the evidence, because that is what exists.
Reiko sells through carrier and marketplace channels, where published documentation is thin and product codes get reused across revisions. This review tells you what to demand from the listing.
Why this review looks different
Our reviews are built from published specifications, certification records, USB-IF listings and manufacturer documentation — see disclosure. For budget carrier-channel accessories that evidence often does not exist: no datasheet, no USB-IF entry, and listings describing several units under one model code.
So this page states what it cannot state. We publish no rail table for the TC100, because we cannot verify one that will still be true for the unit you receive. The model code implies a 100W-class rating; treat that as a marketing claim to be confirmed, not a specification.
The five lines that decide it
| Check | What you want to see | If it is missing |
|---|---|---|
| Safety mark | UL or ETL printed on the housing, not in the listing text | No independent evidence of isolation or fault behaviour — walk away |
| PD profile table | Every rail listed: 5V/9V/15V/20V with currents | You cannot tell what a device will negotiate |
| Single-port vs total | An explicit per-port split | The headline may be a sum you can never draw at once |
| PPS band | A printed programmable range with its current | Assume no Samsung Super Fast Charging 2.0 |
| Input rating | 100–240V, 50/60Hz on the housing | Do not assume it is safe to use abroad |
A charger publishing all five makes claims it can be held to; one publishing none asks you to trust a number on a box: spotting bad marketplace listings.
What the budget tier is genuinely good at
Replacement and redundancy. For a spare in a drawer, a car or a suitcase charging phones and earbuds, a certified budget charger does the job. USB-C PD protects you: the device requests its own profile, so an adapter with fewer rails charges slowly rather than dangerously — the same reason a higher-wattage adapter is always safe. It is also available in person, which matters when a charger dies away from home.
Where it falls short, and who should skip it
Three weaknesses define the tier. Documentation: without a published rail table you cannot predict whether a laptop, a docked Nintendo Switch (15V/2.6A) or a Galaxy at 45W will be served — you find out by plugging in. Revision drift: one model code can cover more than one internal design. And thermal and longevity data does not exist — no teardowns, no reliability record.
Skip it if the charger's job is to keep a laptop working, to hit a protocol tier such as Samsung's 45W, or to be the only charger you travel with.
The alternatives to price against it
- 65W
Amazon Basics 65W USB-C
The reference budget option: published profile, standard certification.
- Rated output
- 65W class
- Ports
- USB-C PD
- Class
- Budget certified
- 100W
UGREEN Nexode 100W
When 100W is the real requirement: published per-port split.
- Rated output
- 100W total
- Ports
- Multi-port
- Protocol
- PD + PPS
- 30W
Anker Nano 30W
If the real job is a phone, the honest size, fully documented.
- Rated output
- 30W class
- Ports
- 1× USB-C
- Plug
- Folds flat
- Tech
- GaN
Verdict
There is no honest way to tell you how the TC100 performs, and we are not going to pretend otherwise. What would make it worth buying: a printed UL or ETL mark, a full rail table, an explicit per-port split, a 100–240V input rating. All four, and it is a reasonable spare; none, and a documented budget charger does the job with evidence attached.
Related reading
FAQ
Is the Reiko TC100 a 100W charger?
The model code implies a 100W class rating, but we have not found published documentation confirming a rail table. Verify it against the printed output block on the housing.
Are budget chargers dangerous?
Certified ones are not. The signal is a UL or ETL mark on the housing. Uncertified mains adapters are where cheap genuinely is risky.
Why will you not publish a spec table for it?
Because we could not verify one. An invented rail table is worse than useless: you would size a purchase around numbers nobody stands behind.
What should I buy instead?
For a phone, a documented 30W-class charger. For a laptop, a 65W or 100W unit with a published per-port split.